Want to know more about DIY: creating your own blank canvas grid? I'm Claire, a passionate embroiderer for 8 years in Lyon, and I've often found myself stuck: an idea for a pattern in my head, but no grid to fit it. So I learned to make one myself. Today I'm sharing my method, with the tools I actually use, the exact measurements, and a mistake that cost me 3 hours of work. In short, everything I wish I'd known at the start.

The essential materials (and my references)

Before you start, you need to gather a few supplies. I've tested several brands, and here's what works for me:

  • Blank canvas fabric: go for Aïda 5.5 threads/cm (14 count) for a classic look. I buy mine from DMC, reference "Toile Aïda 14 fils/cm" in 50 x 50 cm (about €12)[1].
  • Erasable fabric pencil: Prym brand, fine 0.5 mm lead. It erases with cold water without leaving a trace[2].
  • Metal ruler: 30 cm, with a stop. Mine comes from Cultura (€5.90).
  • Rotary cutter: Olfa RTY-2/G, 45 mm blade. For cutting straight, it's night and day compared to scissors[3].
  • Cutting mat: A3 size, essential to avoid damaging the table (I ruined an oak table, I'll tell you about it below).
  • Fine pins: to hold the fabric on the mat.
  • Graph paper: to draw the grid before transferring it.
  • Masking tape: to mark the edges.

Well, with that, you're all set. I also have a protractor and a set square, but you can do without them for simple grids.

Step 1: Prepare the fabric and define the dimensions

I always start by cutting my fabric to the final size + 5 cm margin on each side so I can stretch it on a hoop or frame. For example, for a 20 x 20 cm pattern, I cut a 30 x 30 cm square. Then I iron the fabric on low heat (setting 1) to remove creases. One too-hot iron and the fibers melt – I tested it for you, it smells like burnt plastic[3].

I lay the fabric flat on my cutting mat and secure the edges with masking tape. That keeps it from slipping while I trace. In the photo of my studio, you can see this organized mess: the wooden block with the wire inlay, the pliers, the ruler… That's exactly where I set up.

Pro tip: Use a tinted fabric (ecru, light gray) rather than pure white. The pencil marks are more visible and the embroidery stands out better[2].

Step 2: Draw the base grid

Now we get to the heart of it. I draw a first square the size of the pattern with my fabric pencil. Then, using the metal ruler, I divide that square into 1 cm x 1 cm squares. Why 1 cm? Because on Aïda 14, a 1 cm square corresponds to about 5.5 threads, which is easy to count[1]. If you prefer, you can draw 5 mm squares for more precision.

I count the squares: for a 20 x 20 cm pattern, that's 20 x 20 = 400 squares. It's long, but you can speed up by using a ruler with marks every centimeter and drawing parallel lines. I recommend drawing all the horizontal lines first, then the vertical ones. That avoids getting your wires crossed.

Pro tip: Draw thicker lines every 5 squares (5 cm) to make it easier to keep track. I use a color code: blue for main lines, red for secondary ones[3].

Step 3: Mark the centering guides

To make sure the pattern is well centered, I mark the center point of the grid with a larger cross. Then I draw median axes (horizontal and vertical) that cross the entire grid. These guides help me when I transfer my pattern. On my table, I always have a small wooden block with a wire inlay that serves as a paperweight – it's a souvenir from my grandfather, but it's perfect for holding the fabric while I trace.

I check the squareness with a set square: the angles must be perfectly straight. A 1 mm error can show over 20 cm. I've had to redo an entire grid because I'd drawn it crooked – frustration guaranteed.

Pro tip: Use natural side light (like in the photo, with the window on the right) to see the pencil reflections and check that the lines are straight[2].

Step 4: Transfer the pattern (or create it directly)

Two options: either you already have a pattern on graph paper, or you create it directly on the fabric. I prefer the first method: I draw my pattern on graph paper at a scale of 1 square = 1 cm, then transfer it to the fabric by counting squares. To do this, I place the sheet under the fabric (if the fabric is thin) or make marks at the intersections.

If you create directly, start with the main outlines, then fill in the details. I use colored fabric pencils to distinguish the different parts of the pattern (red for flowers, green for leaves, etc.). That helps visualize the final result[3].

Pro tip: Digitize your grid with an app like "Grille Canevas" or "Stitch Fiddle" to check the consistency of the stitches before embroidering[1].

Step 5: Check and fix the grid

Once the tracing is done, I lightly iron the back to set the pencil (follow the fabric pencil instructions). Then I stretch the fabric on a frame or hoop. For a 20 x 20 cm canvas, a 25 cm diameter hoop is enough. I check that the grid is straight by placing a ruler on the lines. If all is well, I can start embroidering.

My mistake: The first time, I drew my grid directly on a wooden table without a cutting mat. Result: deep scratches on the tabletop and a fabric that slipped, so a completely crooked grid. I lost 3 hours redoing everything. Since then, I've invested in an A3 mat (€15) and I don't regret it[3].

Pro tip: For large grids, work in 10 x 10 cm sections so you don't get discouraged. And take breaks every hour[2].

Now it's your turn!

You have all the keys to create your own blank canvas grid. Don't be afraid to make mistakes – that's how we learn. Hundreds of embroiderers have already turned their photos into canvas. Now it's your turn to try. So, what will your first creation be?

Sources

💡 Pour vous entraîner: Téléchargez notre motif gratuit de Point de tapisserie de chat persan blanc – Un refuge rustique et douillet et essayez cette technique par vous-même.


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Claire Moreau — Fondatrice de MonCanevas

Passionnée de tapisserie depuis 8 ans, Claire transforme vos photos en grilles de canevas personnalisées. Elle partage ici ses conseils et astuces pour vous aider à créer des tapisseries uniques.

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